When chef Gordon Ramsay launched a new gin last year, in partnership with Scottish producer Eden Mill, a Facebook ad for the brand made it sound pretty wholesome. It included the claim that the gin retained the micronutrients of the honey berries, “which have more antioxidants than blueberries, more potassium than bananas, more vitamin C than oranges, and taste like a mix of blueberries, plums, and grapes.” .
But while many of us would love the idea that a shot of gin could be part of our wellness routine, the Advertising Standards Authority put an end to that ideaand found that the advertisement made nutritional claims that are not permitted under the UK advertising code.
Eden Mill is just the latest of many brands interested in leveraging their products for the wellness industry giant, if they can get away with it. As a result, it can be a nightmare for consumers trying to make conscious decisions about their diet and nutrition, to distinguish fact from fashion.
Nutritional therapist Ian Marber explains that before the establishment of the European Food Standards Authority (EFSA) in 2002, it was common to see advertisements or product descriptions that said things like “Bursting with vitamin C” or “Bursting with antioxidants.”
“They were nonsensical statements but they gilded a product with a benefit in the eyes of the consumer.”
The new rules meant that the language became less colourful. “You could say ‘A source of…’ or ‘High in…’ or ‘Rich in…’. And the wording ‘A source of…’ had to have a certain percentage of the recommended daily allowance or nutrient intake per 100 grams,” explains Marber.
“You’re not supposed to say ‘full of antioxidants’; the real legal claim is that it supports normal oxidation, which is very boring wording.”
Sian Shepherd, a registered dietitian, who offers clinical advice through begoodtoyourgut.co.uk welcomed the fact that the UK remained committed to EFSA post-Brexit, but said the system is far from perfect.
“’Empty’ health promises don’t help the public and can be misleading,” he says.
Nutella is described as a hazelnut spread, “when in reality,” Marber says, “it’s full of palm oil and sugar.” So why do we buy it? Because we want to believe that the foods we like to eat have benefits.
A classic example of wanting the things we love to be healthy for us is red wine. The skin of red grapes contains small amounts of resveratrol, which has powerful antioxidant properties. Therefore, there is a tendency to see it as an almost healthy drink, when the scientific consensus is far from conclusive.
Often the superfood of the day is exactly that, a fad. Today’s CBD is tomorrow’s goji berry.
Given how tricky it can be to navigate the confusion and heavy marketing, nutritional therapist Eve Kalinik says the most important thing to keep in mind when looking at food labels is not to take things at face value. “Just because something has ‘plant-based’ on the package doesn’t make it any healthier. The same with ‘gluten-free’, which also has similar connotations”.
So what “healthy” food products are perhaps less impressive than they seem?
Kombucha
It started out crazy in Los Angeles with homemade potions. Now it’s in cans on corner store shelves. However, Shepherd says, “Evidence supporting the health benefits of fermented foods, including kombucha, is scant. Despite having been around for thousands of years, it remains largely anecdotal.”
A systematic review in 2019 identified only one controlled study in humans, examining the health benefits of kombucha from human subjects; the rest was carried out in animals and “in vitro” studies. “There was also some concern regarding health risks, particularly in vulnerable populations such as the immunocompromised.”
Sugar content is also a concern. “All kombucha requires sugar as part of the fermentation process to a greater or lesser extent,” says Shepherd, who recommends fermented foods with more human-based research studies, such as fermented milk and evidence-based probiotics.
Sourdough
It has been praised as an alternative to overly processed breads with nasty additives that are often the root cause of gluten problems. And it should be as simple as flour, water and salt. But as demand for bread has increased and supermarket sales have soared by 98 percent, many of the breads on the shelves are less than the pure ideal.
An investigation of Which? examined 19 sourdough loaves sold in supermarkets and found that only four were made in the traditional way with the three basic ingredients. The rest contained additional ingredients, such as yeast, ascorbic acid, yogurt and vinegar. While these aren’t necessarily bad for you or unhealthy, it’s clear that customers are being misled. “That’s one of the biggest marketing hoaxes in recent years, and with an unsubstantiatedly high price tag to go with it,” says Kalinik.
Yakult and probiotics
Those jars that promise to make your intestinal flora sing. “Probiotics can support gut health, when consumed as part of a balanced diet that incorporates adequate fiber intake, regular physical activity, and adequate rest/good sleep hygiene,” says Shepherd.
However, for most healthy people, without a digestive disorder or disease, he says, “They are most likely unnecessary, but if you have IBS, diverticulitis, or are on long-term antibiotics, they may be helpful.”
One thing consumers should keep in mind, adds Marber, is that the idea that probiotics are good for the immune system hasn’t been proven. However, to include this on his packaging, he says: “A lot of companies add a supplement like vitamin C, because it has a legal health claim for the immune system. So you can actually say, ‘supports immune function,’ and we consumers think that’s referring to probiotics, but it’s actually vitamin C. Sneaky but common.”
It’s worth noting that Yakult has 10 grams of sugar, and sweet things are thought to be bad for the gut.
Coconut water
It went from being a treat on an exotic vacation to being on your fridge door. Coconut water has become popular due to its perceived moisturizing qualities.
“That and birch water are a bit more hydrating than regular water because they come from a plant and therefore contain minerals, but they are still mostly water,” says Marber. “Studies showed that after exercise, some athletes were slightly better hydrated by drinking coconut water. And of course that translated into marketing it as ‘the secret that Olympic athletes use is coconut water’.”
Coconut oil
You may or may not like the taste of cooking with it, but what about the health benefits? “Coconut oil was actually a form of medium-chain triglycerides, which provided a non-glucose source of fuel for the brain. Now that’s part of a ketogenic diet. Take that out of context and suddenly it becomes so good we should be cooking with it. But it’s still almost all saturated fat.”
Shepherd believes that the coconut oil phase is now slowing down a bit, for the simple reason that it contains 80 to 90 percent saturated fat. “We all know that this is not a good thing, as it could affect our cholesterol level and as such, in the long term, the health of the heart.”
While there are studies reporting lower rates of cardiovascular disease in India and the Philippines, Shepherd says other aspects of the populations’ lifestyles have not been fully accounted for, “which may explain this, so considerable precaution.”
Protein bars and shakes
They are in the box at most stores and seem to be a healthier option than a generic candy bar. “But protein bars and ‘healthy’ bars often contain the same gram-for-gram amount of sugar as a Mars bar…or more in certain cases,” says Kalinik.
Additionally, protein powder shakes are often loaded with more than necessary amounts of sugar and additives, so it always pays to check the ingredients carefully. There is also the question of whether a protein booster is necessary.
“Most people get enough protein from their diet, unless you’re a serious athlete,” says Marber.
Big wave
Replaced the Sugar Puffs and Coco Pops with “healthy” granola. But granola can often pack a lot of sugar, says Kalinik. “It’s often seen as a more virtuous option, but depending on the brand, the sugar content can be high.”
Marber agrees: “Granola tends to be processed grains, often with a lot of sugar. Muesli is fine as long as it’s low in sugar.”
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